Because Monday was National Sports Day (...?) and thus a holiday, I took to the roads and headed out to Nagoya, one of the bigger Japanese cities on the main island that I had yet to visit. My friend Marie did a study-abroad program there in university, so I asked her for some advice before I left and got some recommendations of things to do in the city, but I didn't have much of a plan when I left. I figured I'd see what caught my interest once I was there.
Nagoya isn't huge compared to cities like Tokyo or Osaka (third-largest in terms of size, fourth in terms of population), but there are still very few things that it isn't equipped with. There's a crazy amount of shopping, an art museum, a science museum, an aquarium, and a performing arts hall, among other things.
Nagoya isn't huge compared to cities like Tokyo or Osaka (third-largest in terms of size, fourth in terms of population), but there are still very few things that it isn't equipped with. There's a crazy amount of shopping, an art museum, a science museum, an aquarium, and a performing arts hall, among other things.
You can see Nagoya on the map above. It's basically directly south of Toyama (if you need a quick reminder of where Kurobe is, it's just to the right of the "a" in Kanazawa) and about a six hour drive. There's a fairly cheap bus that would have taken me from Toyama Station to Nagoya, and a train line that would have done the job too, but I decided to drive. At the end of the day, driving is the only mode of transportation that satisfies my desire to be in control. I can head out whenever I want, come back whenever I want, go as fast or as slow as I want. Just me, Peggy, and the open road. I am also cheap, and the cheapest way to get around on the main island is almost always to drive. So, after work on Friday I packed up some clothes, cleaned by house a bit, and hit the road.
One of the benefits of roadtripping is being able to car-camp. It's not for everyone, but as long as you have the right equipment and a car that's designed to hold a lot of cargo, it's really quite nice. You may remember (don't worry, I'll forgive you if you don't) that I slept in my car during my vacation to Yamagata last summer and it didn't go terribly well. I have since gotten some better car-camping equipment and this time was much more successful. I stopped about three and a half hours in and set up shop in the parking lot of a local shrine. I figured the Gods wouldn't begrudge me a solid night's sleep.
One of the benefits of roadtripping is being able to car-camp. It's not for everyone, but as long as you have the right equipment and a car that's designed to hold a lot of cargo, it's really quite nice. You may remember (don't worry, I'll forgive you if you don't) that I slept in my car during my vacation to Yamagata last summer and it didn't go terribly well. I have since gotten some better car-camping equipment and this time was much more successful. I stopped about three and a half hours in and set up shop in the parking lot of a local shrine. I figured the Gods wouldn't begrudge me a solid night's sleep.
Inuyama: The Castle on Dog Mountain | After a truly horrific cup of convenience store coffee and a donut, we were on our way! First stop? Inuyama! Don't worry--even Japanese people have only a vague recollection that it's castle and it exists somewhere. |
I've said it before and I'll say it again: I love a good castle. As of right now, I've toured Nijo Castle (Kyoto), Osaka Castle (not worth anyone's time), Matsumoto Castle (Nagano Prefecture), and Himeji Castle (considered by many to be the premier Japanese castle). I've also seen the outside of Hiroshima Castle and Toyama Castle (both, along with Osaka Castle, complete reproductions thanks to WWII). Inuyama Castle isn't the biggest castle in Japan, and most people would argue that it's far from the best, but it is the oldest. It was originally built in 1440, and even the current building as-is (with a few structural repairs tossed in every now and again) is one of the oldest in Japan, dating back to 1537. As soon as I heard about it, it went on my list of "places to check out before I head back state-side".
I was expecting a fabulous piece of Japanese history, and as you can tell from the photos Inuyama Castle did not disappoint. It's not as well-known as some of the others I've been to, which meant that it was nowhere near as crowded. The view from the top was fantastic, though a bit scarier than I anticipated it being, and at 550 yen (about five dollars), the price was certainly right.
Himeji Castle is glamorous. It's huge, the grounds are a complex of winding walls that stretch forever. The castle itself juts out like a beautiful white beacon on the only hill in the entire city. Inuyama Castle is not glamorous. The grounds are small, the castle itself is compact and minimalistic, and even small details like the architectural detailing in the roof and the window casings are less ornate that what I've seen elsewhere. Regardless, it's still a beautiful piece of architecture. This building was designed to do a very specific job, and the history books say it did that job well.
Himeji Castle is glamorous. It's huge, the grounds are a complex of winding walls that stretch forever. The castle itself juts out like a beautiful white beacon on the only hill in the entire city. Inuyama Castle is not glamorous. The grounds are small, the castle itself is compact and minimalistic, and even small details like the architectural detailing in the roof and the window casings are less ornate that what I've seen elsewhere. Regardless, it's still a beautiful piece of architecture. This building was designed to do a very specific job, and the history books say it did that job well.
| I headed out of Inuyama in the early afternoon and got into Nagoya sometime after 2:00, only to be confronted with one of my biggest fears--exorbitantly expensive paid parking. |
Let's be honest--I don't like spending money on anything. Still, something about paying for parking puts me in an extra bad mood. I feel like I'm throwing my money away on something completely intangible, like paying for the air I breathe or the space I take up as I walk. I had assumed (based on Toyama City's art museum) that the Nagoya Art Museum would have a free parking lot, and I had decided to drop in and see their special exhibit on Pre-Raphaelite and Romantic Painting (whatever the heck that meant) as my first order of business. Instead, I was assaulted by ridiculously high parking fees and pigeons.
Now, a normal person would have probably said "Oh well! That's life in a capitalistic society" and paid the damn parking fee, but I am not a normal person. I am, in fact, something of an expert at finding free parking wherever I go. I firmly believe that the best things in life (including free parking) just take a little time and effort.
After driving around for about twenty minutes looking for a parking lot that was even remotely reasonable, I finally stumbled upon the Nagoya Castle park and discovered free street parking! As long as I was willing to walk awhile to get where I was going, Peggy got to relax in the shade surrounded by lovely greenery and I got to skip the parking fee. That's what I call a win-win situation.
By the time I finally parked, I'd become a bit less attached to the idea of going to the art museum. It was only open until 5:00 anyway, so I wouldn't have much time to explore the exhibits if I decided to go. What I really wanted to do, I thought, was go to a concert.
Back in Denver, me friends and I would frequently take advantage of the Denver Symphony Orchestra's "ten dollar student ticket" policy that allowed anyone with a student id to get a ten dollar ticket the day of the concert. Not only does it help sell unsold tickets, it allows young people who might not otherwise have the money to go to an expensive classical concert to afford tickets. It was always a fun night out, and it's something I've really missed since moving to the middle of nowhere.
As it turned out, not only was the Nagoya Philharmonic performing that night, but they also have day-of incentive tickets for young folks--1,000 yen (a bit under ten bucks) for anyone 24 years old or younger! I'm an atheist through-and-through, but this certainly felt a bit preordained.
Now, a normal person would have probably said "Oh well! That's life in a capitalistic society" and paid the damn parking fee, but I am not a normal person. I am, in fact, something of an expert at finding free parking wherever I go. I firmly believe that the best things in life (including free parking) just take a little time and effort.
After driving around for about twenty minutes looking for a parking lot that was even remotely reasonable, I finally stumbled upon the Nagoya Castle park and discovered free street parking! As long as I was willing to walk awhile to get where I was going, Peggy got to relax in the shade surrounded by lovely greenery and I got to skip the parking fee. That's what I call a win-win situation.
By the time I finally parked, I'd become a bit less attached to the idea of going to the art museum. It was only open until 5:00 anyway, so I wouldn't have much time to explore the exhibits if I decided to go. What I really wanted to do, I thought, was go to a concert.
Back in Denver, me friends and I would frequently take advantage of the Denver Symphony Orchestra's "ten dollar student ticket" policy that allowed anyone with a student id to get a ten dollar ticket the day of the concert. Not only does it help sell unsold tickets, it allows young people who might not otherwise have the money to go to an expensive classical concert to afford tickets. It was always a fun night out, and it's something I've really missed since moving to the middle of nowhere.
As it turned out, not only was the Nagoya Philharmonic performing that night, but they also have day-of incentive tickets for young folks--1,000 yen (a bit under ten bucks) for anyone 24 years old or younger! I'm an atheist through-and-through, but this certainly felt a bit preordained.
The concert started off with a piece by Guillaume Lekeu, a Belgian composer, called Adagio for Strings, Op. 3, then To the Memory of an Angel by Alban Berg (a composer from Austria, and finally Symphony No. 4 by Brahms. The first and last pieces were really good--the middle piece (unfortunately, the piece with the violin soloist) was really not good. It's not the fault of the symphony--I'm sure they did the best with that the composer gave them--but the piece was so aimless that the audience couldn't even tell when it was over. There was a small smattering of applause while the rest of us just waited for the piece to continue and for God's sake develop some direction. It was as close to a train wreck as a professional classical concert can get. This is what happens when you try to get edgy with classical.
Fortunately, after the intermission, they wowed the crowd with some Brahms and everyone went away happy. Fun fact: Japanese people don't do standing ovations. Instead, the step above clapping seems to be clapping louder.
After dinner I checked out an all-you-can-eat farm-to-table buffet near the venue. I was a bit disappointed by all the meat in their offerings (despite all the signs everywhere saying "VEGETABLES!!") but it was still delicious. By the time I was finished with dinner and had made my way back to my car, I looked up a public bath where I could relax a bit and then headed out to a nearby "michi no eki" (road station) where I could set up camp for the night.
Fortunately, after the intermission, they wowed the crowd with some Brahms and everyone went away happy. Fun fact: Japanese people don't do standing ovations. Instead, the step above clapping seems to be clapping louder.
After dinner I checked out an all-you-can-eat farm-to-table buffet near the venue. I was a bit disappointed by all the meat in their offerings (despite all the signs everywhere saying "VEGETABLES!!") but it was still delicious. By the time I was finished with dinner and had made my way back to my car, I looked up a public bath where I could relax a bit and then headed out to a nearby "michi no eki" (road station) where I could set up camp for the night.
| I have a lot of memories from my childhood of long hours on the road interrupted occasionally by the call of the bladder. At best, American rest stops offer you a place to pee (toilet paper and soap generally quite optional) and a vending machine. Like a lot of public facilities, Japanese rest stops are just way better. |
Of course, if you need toilet facilities, they've got you covered. Heated toilet seats? Of course. Bidet feature? You betcha. Flower arrangements on the sink vanity? Need you even ask? They'll also have some vending machines, too, probably at least three or four of them with hot and cold options. That's just the 24 hour accessables, though. The Michi no eki shops (usually open from around 10:00 to around 9:00) almost all have a restaurant (or two or three), as well as a souvenir shop where you can pick up some local specialties. If you want ice cream or takoyaki or crepes, you can probably find those too. This one even had plants and pet fish for sale. | |
One of the best amenities of a michi no eki, though, is a hassle-free place to sleep. Whether you're a trucker mid-way through your route, a retired couple driving through the country in your camper-trailer, or someone like me, you can park at a michi no eki for as long as you need. Some of the larger ones, like the one I stayed at on Sunday night, even have a parking lot with fewer streetlights so the light doesn't bother you while you're trying to take a nap.
While I would be hesitant to spend several hours unconscious at a rest stop in America, Japan is such a safe country that I wasn't worried at all. I slept like a log both nights--though I slept like an extra-loggy log in my own bed on Monday night.
After tidying up the car on Sunday morning, I noticed a restaurant across the street that seemed to be (a) open and (b) a doughnut shop, which sounded like exactly the right way to start of my morning, so I sidled over.
After tidying up the car on Sunday morning, I noticed a restaurant across the street that seemed to be (a) open and (b) a doughnut shop, which sounded like exactly the right way to start of my morning, so I sidled over.
It turns out that Bamboo Donuts (AKA healthy, tasty, and easy to eat!) was more than a simple doughnut shop--they were a doughnut shop that combines doughnuts and Vietnamese spring rolls to create the ethnic breakfast of champions!
Notice: the lovely pot of tea with two (count 'em: two) strainers to get all the little tea bits out of my morning cuppa, a hard-boiled egg, and a spring roll with a delicately fried doughnut wrapped in veggies and rice paper. From an extensive menu of dipping sauces, I chose honey mustard. A solid choice, as it turned out. And how much would you expect to pay for such a lovely breakfast spread? Six dollars? Seven? More? Try 432 yen, or around four dollars. It's a good thing I don't live in Nagoya, because I would get very fat very quickly.
Nagoya: Day the Second | After my lovely breakfast, I drove back to Nagoya Castle to drop off Peggy, then I headed to the Osu shopping district to do a bit of window shopping. |
I didn't have much of a plan, but my tentative goals were to shop around a little bit, maybe go to the art museum, then wander around Nagoya Castle if I had some time left over. There was a festival going on in Osu, and I had a great viewing spot...until several old Japanese people decided that they needed to stand right in front of me so they could see better.
After lunch, I finally stopped by the art museum. Their special exhibit was fantastic (I know nothing about Pre-Raphaelite or Romantic painting, but apparently it's right up my alley) but their permanent collection was really underwhelming. Even though Toyama City is only about 1/4 the size of Nagoya in terms of population, I actually think the Toyama City art museum has a better collection. It isn't huge, but they have a good range of styles and I think almost every piece is interesting to look at. The Nagoya Art Museum, on the other hand, had an entire room devoted to modernist paintings of boobs. While I am a fan of breasts in general, I am not a fan of breasts in art. In my opinion, excessive nudity is just one more way of reducing women to nothing but a body. It seems to me that art involving men usually looks very dignified and scholarly, while pieces involving woman are usually just naked.
Anyway, after the art museum, I headed down to Nagoya Castle...just in time to watch it close. I wasn't too disappointed, though. Unlike Inuyama Castle, Nagoya Castle is not even somewhat original.
It's common knowledge that the atomic bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki by the US were the reason for the Japanese surrender at the end of WWII, but nuclear weapons were actually not the most devastating thing to happen to Japan during the war. The US air raids were even more immediately devastating, and they completely destroyed almost every major Japanese city, Nagoya included. As a consequence, the current Nagoya Castle structure is a reproduction from 1957.
I decided to take a stroll around the castle park instead. About halfway along the trail, I saw a cat hanging out on the sidewalk. I asked him if he wouldn't mind me petting him, and he graciously allowed it. After a few minutes, one of his (many) park-kitty friends hurried over and demanded some attention as well. It was all downhill from there.
Anyway, after the art museum, I headed down to Nagoya Castle...just in time to watch it close. I wasn't too disappointed, though. Unlike Inuyama Castle, Nagoya Castle is not even somewhat original.
It's common knowledge that the atomic bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki by the US were the reason for the Japanese surrender at the end of WWII, but nuclear weapons were actually not the most devastating thing to happen to Japan during the war. The US air raids were even more immediately devastating, and they completely destroyed almost every major Japanese city, Nagoya included. As a consequence, the current Nagoya Castle structure is a reproduction from 1957.
I decided to take a stroll around the castle park instead. About halfway along the trail, I saw a cat hanging out on the sidewalk. I asked him if he wouldn't mind me petting him, and he graciously allowed it. After a few minutes, one of his (many) park-kitty friends hurried over and demanded some attention as well. It was all downhill from there.
By the time I made my way out of the park, I had successfully stroked at least seven different cats. And, though they all probably only allowed it because they assumed I would be feeding them eventually, it was still a lovely way to end my time in Nagoya. Let's be honest--cats just make everything better. There are good reasons why I can't have a pet of my own right now, but that doesn't mean I don't miss having a furry little critter to snuggle.
Thus ended my trip to Nagoya. On the way home, I stopped by Takayama (Denver's sister city!) and took a quick tour around Hida no Sato, one of the coolest local places I've been so far, but that's going to get another blog post all to itself.
I always forget that travel doesn't have to include another person. Three of the best trips I've taken in Japan have been by myself, and I don't think I've enjoyed them any less or gotten any less out of them than I would have with a friend. Traveling alone means you get to make all the decisions--if you want to stop, you can stop. If you want to play with feral park-cats for an hour, you can play with feral park-cats for an hour. You can eat what you want, see what you want, leave when you want and go where you want. It's rare for me to have a weekend where I just lounge around at home, but I really need to try to carve out more time for weekend trips.
I always forget that travel doesn't have to include another person. Three of the best trips I've taken in Japan have been by myself, and I don't think I've enjoyed them any less or gotten any less out of them than I would have with a friend. Traveling alone means you get to make all the decisions--if you want to stop, you can stop. If you want to play with feral park-cats for an hour, you can play with feral park-cats for an hour. You can eat what you want, see what you want, leave when you want and go where you want. It's rare for me to have a weekend where I just lounge around at home, but I really need to try to carve out more time for weekend trips.